The culinary and cultural revelations of Bologna
Billie Austen travelled to the capital of Emilia-Romagna for a taste of the city. Here she tells of her busy few days away…
Arriving at Al Cappello Rosso
After a short transfer from the airport I check into the Al Cappello Rosso, a charming boutique hotel, operating since 1375, just minutes away from the Piazza Maggiore and located in the centre of the city of Bologna. The compact, comfortable rooms are all individual in style and some also have a unique theme. I am staying in ‘Shock in Pink’, which is dedicated to the legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Everything that I could need is in the room: a safe, fridge and minibar, tea and coffee making facilities, hairdryer and television. Wireless internet access is complimentary too. I can even choose my own type of pillow.
Towers and tortellini
I have come to the capital of Emilia Romagna with one aim, to eat as much of the wonderful regional food as I can. I am in La Grassa (The Fat One), a nickname that Bologna, a buzzing university city in the heartland of Parma ham and parmesan production, wears with pride.
A charming hotel receptionist provides me with a map and directions to my first foodie port of call. My walk takes me through the Piazza Maggiore and past the splendid gothic San Petronio, the principal church of the city. I then head into the Quadrilatero; a maze of streets filled with artisan shops bursting with superb produce, from parmesan to cured meats, olive oil, pasta and dried porcini mushrooms.
The rich colours of globe artichokes, cavolo nero and endive contrast with the glistening piles of still-flapping fish that fill the open-air market stalls of the local traders. It is lunchtime and Tamburini, one of the city’s finest delicatessens is beckoning. The delicious aromas of pecorino and parmesan greet me as I walk through the door.
The variety of pork goods here is quite spectacular and the butcher gives me a board of mixed charcuterie, a perfect introduction. Fat speckled salami, fragrant mortadella and a surprisingly delicious head cheese (brawn) are accompanied by a selection of cheeses and washed down with half a carafe of local white wine. This has set me up for the afternoon and my planned ascent of the Torre degli Asinelli, one of the Due Torre and a reminder of a time when Bologna bristled with 300 towers.
There are 498 steps to climb and at the top I am rewarded with splendid views over the terracotta roofs of the city and beyond to the Appenine mountains. On my descent, I am already planning a visit to Il Gelatura where some of the city’s best ice cream is produced. Choosing a flavour is hard but I finally settle on two scoops, hazelnut and zabaione. Revived and with the shops now open after the siesta, it is time for some retail therapy. La Perla lingerie, Bruno Magli shoes, and Mandarina Duck luggage and accessories are all from Emilia Romagna. These stores and many other individual boutiques and galleries line the long, elegant covered passageways that criss-cross the city.
After a short sojourn at the very conveniently located Al Capello Rosso I am ready for cocktails; quite an institution in Bologna. An Aperol spritz is my drink of choice in an elegant bar in the covered passageway of Via de Musei. Dinner reservations are made; it is important to pre-plan restaurants, especially at the weekend. I dine on pumpkin stuffed tortellini with a blue cheese sauce followed by a superb veal cutlet served in the Bolognese style with Parma ham and parmesan. A couple of glasses of sangiovese make for the perfect accompaniment.
Treasures of the city
It’s the next morning and time for breakfast in Osteria Al Cappelo, the hotel restaurant. Fresh fruit and juices, cereals and yoghurt are the right choice this morning, but delicious cakes and pastries, ham and cheese, and a small selection of hot items are all available on the buffet. The freshly made cappuccino is also a great start to the day.
My first stop is the Mercarto delle Erbe – a covered market where locals and restaurant owners come to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, pasta, fish and meat. I am fortunate to be in Bologna on a Saturday when the Slow Food Market is also in the city. This is a small gathering of artisan food producers, but the quality is superb. I taste wonderful organic parmesan, aged pecorinos, and blossom flavoured honeys – and manage a second breakfast when tempted by a whole roast suckling pig. I buy handfuls of dried porcini mushrooms and make a final stop at a bakery stall where the queue tells me this is the place for cakes and pastries.
By late morning I am back in the Quadrilatero. At down-to-earth Osteria del Sole you are welcome to bring your own lunch, purchased from one of the many delicatessens nearby. I choose a glass of their local lambrusco to accompany Parma ham and mozzarella, and soak up the atmosphere of this unique and very popular institution.
After lunch I stop in the welcoming, wood panelled surroundings of Atti where the cities best tortellini has been sold for many generations. The finest semolina flour is sourced from Puglia to hand-make this and the many other types of pasta on sale here. Cakes and pastries are also produced at Atti and all are beautifully wrapped in packaging, which harks back to another century.
My focus for the balance of the day switches from culinary to cultural and I am spoilt for choice. A stroll along Strada Maggiore takes me past the former home of the composer Rossini and on to the delightful Museum of Ancient Musical Instruments. Piazza Santo Stefano forms the backdrop to Santo Stefano, a complex of seven churches, still run by strict Benedictines. Here I take a historical and architectural journey through the interlocking religious buildings that date back to 392AD. Needing a little more exercise, I take a stroll through the 16th-century Jewish Quarter, which is enjoying something of a renaissance. Cobblers and jewellers have set up artisan workshops in the narrow streets of what, until recently, was a rundown area.
After a glass of prosecco in a rather quirky bar favoured by university students, it is time for dinner. I cannot leave the city without trying the ragu bolognese, served with the lightest tagliatelle. It is superb and a far cry from what we so often eat at home. I follow this with a simple but delicious dish of grilled chicken and artichokes.
Final foodie moments
After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, I return to the Quadrilatero to stock up on aged Modena balsamic vinegar and handmade chocolates, and return to Atti for a box of mixed cakes and biscuits. An early but final lunch is the perfect opportunity for a bowl of steaming tortellini in brodo, the city’s signature dish, and there is just enough time for one last gelato before I head back to the airport. I leave Bologna certainly a couple of pounds heavier, but with the fondest memories of wonderful food, great shopping and splendid architecture.
Billie Austen
March 2014
MasterChef Travel’s Italy: Flavours from the Heartland tour includes a 3-night stay and foodie tour around Bologna.